Photography Thailand Forum

[mahonyWeb]

For those of you who have visited Angkor, are there any travel tour companies you'd recommend which will allow myself and my girlfriend see the best of Angkor? I'm mindful that the best time of day to see Angkor is early morning when there aren't so many crowds and so will require a tour operator who is open to this.

We're hoping to visit in the second week of 2007 and will stay in the Angkor area for a couple of days, and then travel back to Thailand. If anybody is able to recommend a 'nice' hotel as well, it would be much appreciated :)

[geoff]

Hi MW,

It's been a few years (2003) since I have been to Angkor but I stayed at the Sofitel Hotel which was very nice. 

Since I was there for only 2+ days, I wanted to have some flexibility around my schedule, because like you, I wanted to see certain temples at certain times of day.  What I ended up doing was booking a car and driver on a daily basis through the hotel.  The cost was US$30/day and this was for a full day (I was able to specify morning pick up time and we finished up at around 5-6 pm).  The driver arrived at my hotel at the time I requested and we planned the day's schedule.  Many of the drivers have experience guiding so he was able to give me suggestions as we planned.  We were able to avoid crowds by planning a route to avoid many of the tours.

I'm not sure what the price is today for the private car or how it compares to the tour prices.  One suggestion though is to take US$ (small bills as well) and make sure you ask for an English speaking driver.  I was able to see pretty much all I wanted to see in my time there which probably would not have been possible joining a tour.

Just my personal experience, hope it helps.

geoff

[CW Lawrence]

I plan on seeing Angkor Wat in two weeks. I'll let you know what we did.

So far however, we plan to spend three days there (the general consensus is that it takes about three days to really experience the ruins in all sorts of lighting conditions). Also we have heard about renting a taxi or tuk tuk for the day and that you may find an english speaking driver who knows the ins and outs of it and will tell you/show you many amazing things. There is a really nice guest house called the two dragons, they are in siem reap and will arrange for a pick up at the poipet border for $35US-$45.

we are also going to Pnom Pen for a day - to see the killing fields and the elementary school. Our friends have said that this is all one needs to see of the Khmer Rouge history, ever (in fact, it sounds like it will be very difficult to take it in, as both of these places are relatively unchanged since)

-cw-

[Marc Schultz]

I was there back in 2000-2001 I guess it was. By that time the crowds were already very heavy and I found heading out early morning did not help much to avoid them at the major temples. Seems everyone who is there for 2-3 days to see the temples usually is willing to make the sacrifice and wake up early too. But you can still enjoy the place and get some nice pictures if you choose your moments.

At that time there weren't that much yet in the way of good small hotels, but I understand that is better now. My brother and I stayed at a small guest house sort of place in the center of town with air conditioned rooms and I think the cost was about $35 a night for a single room. It was fine, the people were nice, and it was a clean and safe place to stay, which was all that really mattered to us for the most part.

The local food looked pretty unappetizing almost everywhere, but we found this one place within walking distance of where we were staying run by a European gentleman called the Red Piano which offerred a Western menu and made good pasta so we ate just about every meal while we were there. Again, I am sure things have probably improved a bit now in terms of variety and availability of food.

I also understood though at the time that the Red Piano also offered guest house type rooms for around the same price as where we stayed, so it might also have been a good place to stay as well.

To get a car and private driver didn't take much effort. They are usually hanging around in front of the hotels or the hotels are happy to arrange them for you as well. They all speak a bit of English I think, enough to give you the basic temple tour, know the places, and I think the price was also about $35 a day as Geoff suggested. They are also as Geoff siad willing to pick you up at whatever time you want, but do like to limit it to about 5-6PM at night so they can get back to their families in time for dinner. Again, those prices are going back 5-6 years already and since gas prices have gone up I am sure those prices have increased too.

Geoff is also right, they prefer US$ there. You can either get them in Thailand before you go or you can find many Chinese owned money changing shops around town that will change Thai Baht for you there into whatever currency you like.

It is all very user friendly and I found prices of most things are pretty much standardized to the point where more or less whatever is the going rate around the area is what you will be offered in most situations.

[Renato]

May I also add some sort of advise to would-be visitor to the Angkor Temples, just take photographs and nothing else, some hard core souvenir hunters have in the past tried to pick up a piece of stone as a memento thinking that it is alright to do so only to find themselves in trouble with the customs officials at the airport when they check-in their luggage or even in their hand carry. The Cambodian government declared that it is against the law to take anything that is considered part of the temple structures, some locals will even try to sell you a piece or so and assured you that it is not illegal but beware, they are probably the same person who will tip the authorities to make extra bucks. I understand some people got away with it but don't try your luck, it will cost you money for something not even worth taking if you get caught.

[Chris Savery]

I've been to Angkor twice now. I went very much on the cheap and just wanted to add it to the info here in case anyone browsing is interested in lower prices. My last trip was Jan 2005. I didn't take photos that time but had my video camera and shot quite a bit of that.

I took the bus from Kao San Rd for some ridiculously cheap price like 200-300 baht. We got to Seam Riep around 10pm at night. They say you'll arrive around 6pm but that's baloney. Both my trips we got there much later. When you arrive by bus they will take you to guest houses that they have affiliations with. They may be good or bad - you decide. We stayed at a very clean modern one with small rooms with a TV, air con and hot water for $7/night. It was a short 5 min walk from the town center via a small bridge over the local canal. There are many nearby and some are old and dirty and others are new and clean. On my first trip in 2002 I only paid $3/night and it was old but clean.

To visit the temples you need a pass. They were available for 1 day, 3 day and 7 day. On my first trip I got a 3 day and that was enough for me. On the second I got a 1 day and that was enought the second time. Usually if you're doing your own thing then you will get the pass around 5:30 in the evening on the day before your main day. The driver can help you do this. (If you're staying somewhere fancy I'm sure they just do it all for you) One thing to keep in mind is that despite wanting to see all the temples it can be very hot and by afternoon almost everybody starts to fade out. When I went a day pass was $20 and 3 days $40 and 7 days $60. That may have changed but it gives you some idea.

I found a tuk-tuk driver on the street who took me to get the passes on the evening before and then around the temples all day for $7. He didn't speak much English and I didn't ask him for any guidance. By late afternoon he tried to give me some bull story about the big tour costing more. I think he was talking to other drivers who said he charged too little. Anyway, I told him this is what we agreed on and refused to be intimidated into paying more. He wasn't happy but finished the day and dropped us off in town. I gave him a $2 tip at that time. Since I had been before I told him exactly what temples I wanted to visit, step by step as we made our way around.

Everyone heads out to the main temple at something like 6am and waits for the sun to come up. I guess as a photographer you'll all do this too. I did. But you know there is about 50 guys all waiting around at the lake in front of the temple and everyone is taking the same classic shots. It's actually a pretty boring shot unless you can get some unsual lighting conditions. There has to be something better than this. If I were going again I'd try doing some other temples early in the morning as there is definately more options for something unique. If the sky is looking amazing then do the big one. If the sky is humdrum then look for something better to focus on. Just a suggestion and my opinion of course. I'd like to know how many shots exist of the main temple with blown out sky behind and murky lake in front.

Despite the idea that maybe these ruins are overrated by some I have to say that from a photographer's perspective they should not be missed. Enjoy!

[SimonP]

Angkor Wat is one of my favourite places in the world and not just for photography either.

I went there in June and can really recommend the Two Dragons Guest House mentioned earlier in this thread.  The main reason I wanted to stay there was because the owner Gordon is an experienced photographer with many tips on Cambodian life and photography.  Unfortunately he was on a visit  in the US at that time so I missed all his local knowledge.  He also has the maybe the largest website on all things Cambodian with a few photographs.  I'm not sure about the rules on posting website addresses here but anyone can email me if they need it: simonparis@hotmail.com.

And quickly my suggestions for photographers wanting to see the temples:

1. Don't do a tour - in Siem Reap get a car or remorque (tuktuk) with a driver.  Easy, flexible, safe and not too expensive.

2.From BKK if you're going by land don't do the bus from any travel agent, especially in Khao San.  They arrive late on purpose to get you to stay at a guest house or hotel where they get a commission.  They also try to make you exchange money for bad rates and overcharge for the visa.
 
Instead, get a bus (or train from Hualamphong if you want cheap cheap) from Morchit Station, 80 baht tuk tuk to the border and then a private car from the border direct to your hotel (US$50 for up to 3 pax if my memory is correct).  Again, fast, safe and more comfortable.

If you are going to stay at the Two Dragons Guest House you can email them to be waiting for you when you cross into Cambodia AND you pay the driver when you arrive at the Guest House, not before.

3.  If you want to fly Bangkok Airways goes direct to Siem Reap.  Another option if you have time is Air Asia to Phnom Penh, very cheap and fast.  Then bus or car up to Siem Reap.  Road is much better from this direction plus you have the opportunity to see Killing Fields, Tuol Sleng Museum, etc.

4. Lastly for photography, early morning, late afternoon is best light.  You've travelled all the way to Angkor so you wanna get at least one sunrise at Angkor Wat itself for THAT photo!  Get there early (and I mean early, say 5.00am), before the sun comes up, get a good position and start taking pics with slow shutter speeds and tripod.  The best pics are actually before sunrise when there is less light.

Another good place for sunrise is Srah Srang - the sacred pool which was featured in the Baraka movie.

My general schedule over 4 days was get up 4a.m. go for sunrise, back for a bit of a midday sleep when it was hot and then back out mid avo, sunset and back to Siem Reap.

Hope that helps!

Simon.

[Marc Schultz]

Good, useful info Simon. Thanks for adding and feel free to post that link in the Forum as well. No problem on posting links in general, even to other Forums is fine.

[SimonP]

Sorry, we paid $40 for the car: Poipet Border to Siem Reap.

Simon.

[SimonP]

Thanks Marc.  The website for Cambodia info is www.talesofasia.com.  To contact Gordon about Two Dragons Guest House/photography in Cambodia email: twodragons@talesofasia.com.

Simon. 

[mahonyWeb]

Wow! I never expected such a good response... :)

Thank you very much guys. A veritable feast of information... :)

[kinginexile]

I would like to add that one of the greatets travel  websites, any country, is about Cambodia, some of you must be familiar with it. It's not even a website, it's an experience, a labor of love. It' s been redesigned, but I assume it's as complete and great as before:

http://andybrouwer.co.uk/home.html

I was in Cambodia in January, since I had my (french) mom and sis with me, we went the safe road and hired a guide + chauffeur thru Khon, a top organizer of specific tours around the country, including photographic ones. he is based in Siem Reap. If needed, I can pass on the info to contact him.

[baracoa]

I was in Siem Reap last may.
A nice way to go around: local "tuk tuk". 10$ a day and the wind makes you cool. And it's protected from the rain.
A couple of days is too short! I think it's a good idea to visit the same wat at different times of the day.
Be aware. Now it's a huge destination for asiatic turists. Sometimes wats are overcrowded!
So it's a good idea to ask the tuktuk driver what is the schedule of the groups and try to do something different.
A nice hotel in the 45-70$ range is Bopha Angkor Hotel. Quiet, well located, nice rooms.... but drinks are expensive!

[mahonyWeb]

Belated thanks to KIE & Baracoa :)

[Kerbin]

I was in Siam Rep/Ankor during April of this year. "Fascinating place" is an understatement.

All I can recommend is that if you are considering to Visit Ankor Wat in the future, do it as soon as you can. The gazillion amount of tourists @ us$25 per head, clambering all over this marvel, basically unsupervised are doing irreparable damage to this world wonder.

We secured a local guide from friends who had visited previously. His knowledge was passionate and invaluable.

eg: We were walking along what a thought was a normal gravel road, when he explained to me that the French decided that this road needed "reinforcing" so instead of sourcing a quarry, they just pulled down one of temple walls crushed the stone into road base. If you pick up some of this rock, it still has it original carvings. Unbelievable.

PM me for his details.